Smokin' Brews

Labels on wine, beer, and liquor can be fascinating, but you might not know how fascinating—and often hilarious—they can be unless you read Bevlog, a blog operated by the Lehrman Beverage Law firm, which helps its clients comply with state, federal, and international regulations.

On March 17, 2005, the Lagunitas Brewing Co. of Petaluma, Calif., got a visit from agents of the California Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control and subsequently was shut down for 20 days in part because of pot-smoking at the brewery's weekly tasting parties, which were open to the public. So the next year, founder Tony Magee came up with a new brew, "Undercover Investigation Shut-Down Ale."

The label told part of the tale, though it didn't mention the weed. Mostly, it comprised a political screed in the true spirit of California-style libertarianism. "We Brewed This Especially Bitter Ale In Remembrance of the 2005 St. Patrick's Day Massacre And in Celebration of Our 20-Day Suspension," it read in part. "Whatever. We're Still Here. ... The extra large B. Franklin said it well that you can tell the strength of a society by the paucity of pages in its book of laws. Today we are all surrounded by ... laws that make large and small criminals of us all."

In full compliance with state and federal law, the label dutifully indicated the beer's alcohol content: 10.1 percent.

Most of the labels featured on Bevlog aren't quite that colorful, but nearly all of them are fascinating in one way or another for what they say about the increasingly varied booze business. In a world where giant corporations dominate with their bland products, dull packaging, and risk-free marketing, it's refreshing to have a growing number of small breweries, wineries, and distilleries coming up with weird, funky products bearing weird, funky—and sometimes beautifully rendered—labels.

Or not-so-beautiful ones. Take "Ugly American Beer" from East End Brewing in Pittsburgh. The label depicts George W. Bush as an angry lunatic in a cowboy hat. Bevlog asks: "Does anyone else find it a remarkable testament to the country's strength that the executive branch would affirmatively approve a label rather bashing the sitting president?"