The First Luncheon

Earlier this month, when the menu for Barack Obama's inaugural luncheon was still super-secret, Florida State University professor Elizabeth B. Goldsmith offered an "educated guess" on what might be served. "I assume we'll see American Midwestern cuisine traditionally associated with Chicago," she said.

Not even close. The lunch, with the theme "A New Birth of Freedom" and lots of thematic references to Abraham Lincoln, is bereft of red meat, and any corn among the dishes is entirely incidental. The first course consists of a seafood stew and a Napa Valley sauvignon blanc. Second course is "a raft of American birds," including duck and pheasant, and another California wine, this time a pinot noir. Dessert includes apple cinnamon sponge cake and champagne—also from California. (Recipes for all the dishes can be found here.)

Goldsmith, professor of resource management and consumer economics at FSU, offered up an interesting survey of past inaugural feasts. A few examples:

William McKinley "grabbed a corned-beef sandwich and a cup of coffee in one of the Senate's committee rooms," she said.

Franklin Roosevelt wanted chicken a la king for what would prove to be his final inaugural lunch but was told it would be impossible to keep that meal hot for the 2,000 diners (Obama's guest list is just a tenth as long). So they got chicken salad, rolls, unfrosted pound cake, and coffee.

Lyndon Johnson enjoyed Texas heart of filet mignon, tomato surprise, and something called "the president's delight" for dessert. (I can't find anything online that explains just what it was that so delighted the president.)

Our outgoing, ersatz down-home president was served a decidedly elitist repast for his first inaugural luncheon that included lobster pie, grenadine of beef supreme, chartreuse of vegetables in a pastry ring, toffee pudding, and demitasse café.

Many of these meals were served during trying times for the country. Roosevelt, of course, was still pursuing World War II. Johnson was dealing with domestic strife and a burgeoning problem in Vietnam. Bush's second inaugural lunch, a quail-centered affair with a Native American theme, was digested as things were looking grim in Iraq but before the president had squandered the "political capital" he had boasted the 2004 elections had given him.

And now, of course, we're fighting two wars and the global economy is in a tailspin.

But said Goldsmith: "One thing never changes. In good economic times and bad, during war or peace, the mood at the inauguration luncheon is always celebratory."

On Wednesday, perhaps, Obama will finally get that Chicago lunch: an Italian beef sandwich and fries, perhaps. Eaten at his desk.