The "Plumped" Chicken Conspiracy

The "health claims are often misleading" story has been done to death, including by me. But unlike, say, the "there are disgusting bodily fluids on hotel bedding" story, there is always a new angle to pursue or play up.

The Wall Street Journal's latest iteration opens with a fun fact: Chicken that is labeled "all natural" is often "plumped," meaning that it contains extra water, salt, and a seaweed extract called carrageenan.

Truly all-natural chicken contains about 45 to 60 milligrams of salt per serving. The "plumped" stuff can contain up to 10 times that amount—more than an order of fast-food fries. Plumping also means consumers are paying for chicken but are getting saltwater. About $2 billion worth every year.

Big Chicken (Tyson Foods (TSN) et al) says people like the saltwater-injected fowl better.